In the realm of nougat, nebbiolo and truffles - gourmet tips for Piedmont
Almost two weeks have passed since our group trip to Piedmont and the impressions are still just as present as the odd souvenir or two in our personal wine cellar or pantry. First of all...it is almost impossible to eat badly in Piedmont. The quality of the basic ingredients and the combination of French influences and Italian cuisine is something very special. Our expectations were correspondingly high.
Barolo, Barbera or Nebbiolo - which wine should it be?
At the very beginning of the trip, the participants had one question in particular... "Is the famous Barolo wine really worth the money?" During the six days of the trip, we should be able to form our own opinion. Barolo has a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), which means a controlled and guaranteed production, which is the highest Italian wine classification. The Nebbiolo grapes that form the basis of this wine, which is aged for at least 38 months, including at least 18 months in wooden barrels, grow in 11 municipalities. At the Cantina Brandini we were able to taste different vintages and also a wine that was also made from the Nebbiolo grape but cannot be called "Barolo" due to its origin, which lies outside the 11 Barolo communes. Incidentally, there is a beautiful piazza at the highest point of this enchanting village, from which you not only have a fabulous view of the Langhe Hills World Heritage Site, but from which you can also discover some of the municipalities of the Barolo region in an artistic way (and by the way, this piazza is also perfect for a group photo!).
Our conclusion about Barolo... The tight regulations and the small area under cultivation (= limited quantity) certainly justify the sometimes high price, but there are also excellent Nebbiolo wines that are just as fantastic and cost only half the price of a Barolo, if that. An absolute surprise for many participants, however, were the wines from the far less popular Barbera grape, both Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti - especially in the Riserva version, they compete with many a Barolo and at a great price-performance ratio. Another absolute outsider and unknown is the Rucché wine, which is made from the grape of the same name. If you are in the Asti area, be sure to try it!
The Brandini winery is definitely worth a visit, the staff are knowledgeable and friendly and you can do the tasting in the middle of the barrel cellar, plus the production method is sustainable.
OUR RESTAURANT TIP FOR GOURMETS: Not only is the winery fantastic, but so is the restaurant on the estate. The Ristorante Coltivare has proudly held a green Michelin star since 2024. There is a vegetable and herb garden and, in addition to classic menus, there is also a menu whose dishes are largely prepared on the grill - a real taste experience! Who would have thought that a vegetarian carrot dish could be so innovative and interesting? Chapeau! The dessert declared as "apple cake" was also a pure sensory delight. The view of the vineyards and Alps from the large panoramic windows is an additional highlight.
But Piedmont isn't just good for red wine....
Don't worry if you're not a fan of red wine, because Piedmont also offers sparkling pleasure in the Asti region. Asti Spumante is also known in Germany, but the "metodo classico" of Piedmont, the Alta Langa Brut, is hardly widespread on the international market, and we are absolutely at Champergnern level. We were on the trail of this sparkling seducer at Cantina Contratto - the oldest sparkling wine cellar in Italy and also a pioneer of pure millesimato (i.e. vintage sparkling wines). The underground vaulted cellars were simply impressive, as was the dexterity of the cellar master, who "turns over" no less than 320 bottles in 1 minute to gently distribute the yeast in the bottles.
The subsequent tasting was also super exciting with two rarities, a Brut and a Rosato Brut, the small delicacies were fantastic and very carefully selected locally. The grissini, for example, are made in a nearby 2-star restaurant and are almost worth a trip on their own.
Piedmont - The gourmet paradise of truffles and hazelnuts
Luckily, Piedmont is not just about wines, because the black and white gold, commonly known as truffles, is at least as important. Especially when the truffle market in Alba takes place from mid-October to December, the tubers are on everyone's lips (in the truest sense of the word!). Of course, you can also simply order a plate of tajarin (= wafer-thin Piedmontese egg pasta) in one of the trattorias, but it is much more interesting to take part in a truffle hunt. This is the only way to understand why truffles are so precious (and expensive). Behind the truffle hunt lie years of experience, the training of hunter and dog and a sensitivity for nature and its changes. Watching the well-rehearsed duo of truffle hunter and dog is simply magical and when a white truffle is brought to light from the end of October to the beginning of January, a small feeling of happiness sets in for everyone involved.
This is only topped when you prepare your own truffle pasta....right from the dough and that's exactly what we did on the group trip. Not only was a lot of fun and laughter guaranteed, but the homemade pasta tasted twice as good after the work was done. The cooking course took place in the farmhouse of a hazelnut producer and of course we also learned more about this product, which incidentally is responsible for the delicious Piedmontese nougat (gianduiotto).
It's a good thing that two dates have been planned for the group trip to Piedmont next year, because this trip simply makes you want more and this much can already be revealed...there will be some surprises next year. With this in mind, just take a look at your diary and if you would like even more details, you can browse through the travel program of the group trip 2025. Until then, SALUTE!
