Florence off the beaten track: discover undiscovered districts and our restaurant tips
Florence is undoubtedly one of the most famous cities in the world, renowned for its art, history and breathtaking architecture. But away from the major sights such as the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery and the Ponte Vecchio, there is much more to discover - charming, less touristy neighborhoods that reflect the true charm of the city. Our colleague Ines lives in Tuscany and is happy to share her insider knowledge with you.
It's jam-packed between Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo...the center of Florence is usually totally overcrowded.
OltreArno: A hidden gem on the other side of the Arno
Everyone knows the view of the Arno with its famous Ponte Vecchio, but have you ever explored the "other" side of the river? OltreArno is a neighborhood that many visitors overlook, even though it has so much to offer. The neighborhood is less crowded and exudes an authentic Florentine atmosphere.
The Ponte Vecchio bridge is a must-see on a vacation in Florence - it's worth crossing it and walking a little further.
A highlight here is the Santo Spirito district. The Basilica of Santo Spirito, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, is less famous than the cathedral, but no less impressive. Around the basilica you will find a charming network of narrow streets lined with small cafés, artisan boutiques and trattorias. It is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the Florentine way of life and experience the "real" Florence.
The district really comes into its own, especially in the evenings when the sun slowly sets. The atmosphere is relaxed, the Florentines stroll through the streets and the smell of freshly prepared food fills the air. A must-see in this district is the Piazza Santo Spirito, where a lively market takes place during the day and is a popular meeting place for locals in the evening.
Our tip: If you are looking for an exceptional bar, you should visit the Bar Rasputin in the OltreArno district. This bar is known for its excellent cocktails and stylish atmosphere, reminiscent of the posh old England. Beware, you can't get into the unassuming-looking building without a reservation and the corresponding code word.
Rasputin cocktail bar - so secret that you can't get in without a code word.
Another tip for foodies is the restaurant Il Santo Bevitore, a cozy but elegant place that serves typical Florentine dishes with a modern twist - the perfect place for an unforgettable dinner. The restaurant is recommended by Slowfood and also has a bakery and store.
Il Santo Bevitore - small, fine and on the other side of the Arno (c) Il Santo Bevitore
Villa Brandani and the Glycinia period: A hidden paradise
Also on the other side of the Arno, you will find the Villa Brandani, which is a true paradise, especially in spring and summer. This villa, which was once owned by Florentine aristocrats, is located just outside the city center, but it's worth the walk. A visit to the villa is an unforgettable experience, especially during the glycine season. The extensive gardens are covered in lushly blooming wisteria, transforming the walls and pergolas into a sea of purple and white flowers.
When the blue rain is in bloom, Villa Brandani is spectacular and also offers a great view of the city
The Gardens of Villa Brandani not only offer a magnificent view of Florence, but also a peaceful oasis that few tourists ever get to see. It is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy the Florentine countryside to the full.
The district behind Santa Croce to Piazza Beccaria: market halls, antiques and pavement cafés
The district behind the famous Basilica of Santa Croce is another insider tip that is only known to a few. While the basilica itself is one of Florence's most visited sights, the area behind it has a completely different character. Here you won't find crowds of tourists, but an authentic Florentine neighborhood characterized by artists, artisans and young Florentines.
The historic (brutal!) soccer match takes place in Piazza Santa Croce in mid-June. Behind the church, things are quieter.
Stroll through the narrow, irregularly paved alleyways and discover charming little stores selling Florentine crafts and fashion. The atmosphere is relaxed, and there are numerous cafés and trattorias where you can enjoy Florentine cuisine.
The walk continues to Piazza Beccaria, one of the city's lesser-known squares, but with its wide, open space and classic Florentine buildings, it makes for a pleasant destination. Here you have the opportunity to experience Florentine life in a quieter, more authentic context.
Another undiscovered highlight behind the Basilica of Santa Croce is the Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio, one of Florence's oldest and most popular market halls. This traditional market offers a fantastic selection of fresh, local produce, including seasonal vegetables, olive oil, cheese and meat. It is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the daily life of the Florentines and be enchanted by the flavors of Italian cuisine. The market is open until 13:00 - closed on Sundays.
The Ambrogio Market is the authentic heart of the district and a meeting place for locals.
The market hall is less touristy than the Mercato Centrale, but all the more authentic. Locals meet here to do their shopping and there are also small stalls where you can sample delicious Italian snacks such as panini, ham and cheese. A visit is a must if you want to experience authentic Florence. There is also a flea market around the corner for antique lovers.
A curiosity: in front of the market hall, a Chinese woman always prepares fresh delicacies at the lowest price. Florence has had a high density of Chinese residents for decades due to the tailoring suppliers for the fashion industry based in Prato - there are even Chinese street shops here.
Other than that, you can also get your money's worth with Florentine street food. Florence's "trippai" are well-known in the city and extremely popular with locals for a quick lunch.
For example, halfway between Santa Croce and Piazza Beccaria, you will find Pollini, which has become an institution thanks to the quality of its panini. The classic panini on offer here are those with offal or roast beef.
Our tip: The lampredotto (= abomasum) is tender as butter, with lots of braising juice and slightly spicy. Overcome your initial aversion, it's worth it - you're tasting a piece of Florentine tradition.
At Pollini, everyone waits patiently for their panino - four-legged friends included.
Do you fancy a short break in Florence?
Discover our dream trip just outside Florence here. You will spend the night in a slow food farm with enchanting rooms and enjoy half board and a tour with tasting of the delicacies produced on site. A private culinary-cultural city tour of Florence is included in the package!
Located amidst vineyards and olive groves - the Locanda Casanuova is ideal for a vacation near Florence.
